Color is a Spectrum: Why I Don't Use Seasons at The Authentic Palette
For nearly 30 years, I’ve lived and breathed color. From my early days behind the makeup counter to years as an educator, formulator, and writer, I’ve learned one truth about color: it’s far more personal than warm vs. cool or “Spring” vs. “Winter.”
Color isn’t seasonal. It’s soulful. It’s individual. It’s you.
That’s why I created The Authentic Palette — a modern, inclusive approach to color analysis that celebrates the full spectrum of beauty. My method was born from experience, not from a weekend certification. It’s for every face, every undertone, every hair color, and every identity — people of color, trans and nonbinary clients, and anyone who’s ever felt unseen in traditional beauty spaces.
Every face deserves to be reflected in its most authentic light.
What’s Wrong With Color Analysis Today
Let’s be honest — much of the color analysis world has become a franchise-driven, cookie-cutter business model. Systems like House of Colour operate as MLM-style franchises that cost tens of thousands of dollars to join. Training programs from major organizations often last only a few days — three to nine days, to be exact — and yet their graduates emerge calling themselves “certified color analysts.”
Three days is barely enough time to learn basic color theory, let alone the complexity of human undertones, overtones, and how light interacts with real skin. After decades of working with faces, I can tell you: true color mastery takes years of experience and an intuitive eye that simply can’t be taught in a crash course.
Many of these programs also overlook professionalism and accuracy. I’ve seen “analysts” performing consultations in brightly colored clothing or rooms filled with art and décor that reflect color back onto their clients’ faces — all of which completely distort results.
And here’s the truth that’s rarely talked about: the founders of most of these systems weren’t makeup artists, colorists, or professionals who’ve actually worked with human skin and pigment. They were businesspeople — often executive coaches — who turned color analysis into a product.
Color is not a franchise opportunity. It’s an art and a science — one that deserves respect, experience, and inclusion.
The Limitations of Traditional Systems
Even the more nuanced 12-season models fall short. Here’s why:
They rely on outdated assumptions. Some systems focus on “childhood coloring” — but your golden hair as a five-year-old has little to do with your undertone today.
Being a consultant doesn’t give you the natural instinct for color that cannot be taught.
They exclude too many people. Most seasonal systems were built around white skin tones. That’s not only outdated — it’s unacceptable. Beauty isn’t limited to a narrow shade range.
Other methods also ignore people with vibrant hair colors, like pink or blue, and often fail to accommodate trans and nonbinary clients whose beauty journeys might not fit traditional boxes.
My philosophy? Color analysis should reflect who you are right now — not who a chart or franchise says you should be.
Why I Don’t Use Seasons
I don’t use seasons because they put people into boxes.
Color is fluid — it evolves as you do.
In my method, your current hair color plays a key role, alongside your undertone and eye color. For instance, I was once typed a Soft Summer. Pretty, sure — but many of those muted tones washed me out. When I darkened my hair, my skin came alive in Bright Winter jewel tones. I also look great in Bright Springs. Why? Because I have a neutral undertone and a high contrast. I also look GREAT in lavender and denim blue.
Color is dynamic, and it should be treated that way.
Whether you’re silver-haired, pastel-haired, or anywhere in between, your color story deserves flexibility and authenticity.
Beyond Warm and Cool
Many systems insist everyone is either warm or cool — but that’s simply not true.
There are 3 basic undertone categories: warm, cool, and neutral.
A deep understanding of olive (which is an overtone), especially, deserves its own recognition. Most systems ignore it entirely, even though countless people have olive overtones that shift how colors reflect on their skin.
And let’s talk about redheads. The assumption that every redhead is warm? Completely false. I’ve met countless redheaded clients with cool undertones. Placing them in warm palettes makes them look tired, not radiant. The undertone always comes first — not the hair color.
The Eye Matters
Eye color isn’t an afterthought — it’s a crucial part of the harmony.
The eyes hold unique tones that influence how certain hues interact with your overall coloring. Ignoring them is a missed opportunity to uncover the most flattering palette.
Experience Matters
While I may be newer to the title of Certified Color Analyst, I’m no newcomer to the art of color.
I’ve been analyzing undertones, matching foundations, and selecting complementary shades since the mid-1990s. I’ve worked with faces of every background as a makeup artist and educator for brands like Lancôme, Clarins, Estée Lauder, Laura Mercier, and Cargo Cosmetics.
I’ve written extensively on color in the print media, dating back to my first how-to guide for USA Today on how to choose a red lipstick in 2012. My decades of experience have taught me what no 3-day certification could: how to see the interplay between undertone, overtone, pigment, and light — in real life, on real people.
The Authentic Palette Difference
Color analysis is both science and art.
Science gives us the structure — the Munsell system, the rules of hue, value, and chroma. Art brings intuition — the practiced, experienced eye that sees how a color truly lives on the skin.
At The Authentic Palette, I blend both.
I don’t rely on rigid systems. I rely on connection, education, and artistry — to help you find colors that feel authentically you.
Because color should never be about fitting in a box.
It should be about lighting you up — exactly as you are.