Hi! My November launch is delayed a bit, as I had a craniotomy in early December to remove a brain tumor. Today is the first day in more than a month since I have opened my laptop.

I’ve been slowly working on my healing, but have been playing with red lipsticks and have a new favorite red from Revlon — Uncut Ruby. It is a lovely blue red. I encourage everyone to have a red in their lipstick collection! Looking for your own red? Here are some recommendations based on undertone (or in the case of olive, the overtone):

Red Lipsticks for Cool Undertones

Red Lipsticks for Warm Undertones

Red Lipsticks for Neutral Undertones

Red Lipsticks for Olive Overtones - I am still adding to these lists, too.

My time here spent recovering and taking life super slowly has been so helpful. While certain things are a struggle, I have been able to do others I’ve been unable to do in YEARS. I no longer have the numbness, tingling and nerve pain on the right side of my body — particularly in my hands and arms. I have knitted three scarves. I haven’t knitted in two and a half years. My handwriting looks like my own and I am not messing up my Ms and Ns when I write.

As you can see, I am also adjusting appearance-wise. The front of my hair was shaved for surgery and I have 36 stitches that are dissolving. It looked like I was beaten up, but my face is healing from the bruising and swelling.

Since I was left with a partially shaved front and a longer back, a week after I got home, I cut the rest off because the funky mullet was making me cry when I looked in the mirror. Now I am wearing turbans, soft headbands from Natural Life, and all sorts of fun handmade headwraps from Etsy.

Let’s see….What else is new here?

I am going to start making JEWELRY again (specifically dangly earrings)! I have not made jewelry in so long. Years. I was looking back at my old Instagram posts and found one from 7 years ago that said I needed to take a break from hand stamping jewelry because I was having pain and numbness in my hands and right side. The doctors said I had this tumor for years and I quite certain it was there then as well.

Sitting here in quiet rest pondering what is next AFTER recovery and what my passions are and what makes my heart sing and how I tie those things together here with The Authentic Palette have really helped during this time.

I know that I want The Authentic Palette to be more of a niche than I originally planned. While I originally — BEFORE SURGERY — planned for a more traditional color analysis business (while not doing the seasonal aspect), I realize that my passion is not going to help someone find the right color clothing. Can I do that? Most definitely! My passion is to help you find makeup colors that enhance your features.

If I narrow it down even more, it is to help you find a perfect lipstick wardrobe.

You see, for me personally, when I put on a lipstick (or stain or gloss) and a pair of dangly earrings, I feel put together. Always have. Always will. Anyway, just sharing some late afternoon thoughts before my next nap.

At its core, wearing red lipstick isn’t just about looking polished — it’s about claiming your space, taking up room, and making sure your presence is felt.

I think it’s time we all find that red and start wearing it a little more often, don’t you?

If you’ve ever bought the wrong shade and felt burned enough to avoid red lipstick altogether, you’re not alone. Red can feel intimidating — unforgiving, loud, and very permanent once it’s on your lips. But when you find the right undertone and formula, red becomes empowering instead of scary.

I’ve been helping women find their perfect red for years. Shades come and go, formulas improve, and my recommendations evolve — but these principles never change.

Red Lipstick Is for Every Age (and Every Time of Day)

A classic red pout is timeless and wearable at any age. Once reserved strictly for nighttime or special occasions, red lipstick now fits seamlessly into daytime looks when paired with a soft neutral eye and a touch of cheek color.

Taylor Swift is a perfect example. Her signature red lip — often Pat McGrath Elson 4 or MAC Ruby True — works just as effortlessly with casual daytime outfits as it does on the red carpet. Both of those are cool, blue-based reds which work well for her neutral undertones. Red isn’t about drama; it’s about intention.

It’s All About the Undertones

The secret to pulling off red lipstick isn’t confidence alone — it’s undertones. Understanding whether your skin leans cool, warm, or neutral makes finding the right red infinitely easier.

Cool Undertones

Those with rosy skin, blue or green eyes, and a preference for silver jewelry often have cool undertones. Blue-based reds are especially flattering here.

Try:

• Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Cherries in the Snow

• Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in Uncut Ruby

• L’Oréal Colour Riche Lipstick in British Red

I am recommending 2 Revlon lippies here. Cherries in the Snow is more of a raspberry red, while the Uncut Ruby is a true blue-based red. The L’Oréal is cool-neutral. They’re all different enough that owning all three isn’t overkill.

50 RED LIPSTICKS FOR COOL UNDERTONES

Warm Undertones

If your skin has yellow or peach tones and you look best in gold jewelry, you likely have warm undertones. Orange-based reds — think tomato or brick — will light up your complexion.

Try:

• Pat McGrath MatteTrance Lipstick in Elson 2

• Clinique Poppy Pop

• Charlotte Tilbury Hot Lips Tell Laura

For more:

50 RED LIPSTICKS FOR WARM UNDERTONES

Olive Overtones

Olive skin is an overtone, meaning that the olive seen is on the outer surface of the skin. It may have warm, cool, or neutral undertones since olive contains both blue and yellow tones. Olive isn’t one size fits all, so you need really do need to be aware of your undertone. That said, these shades tend to look great on nearly all olives.

• Stila Stay All Day in Beso

• Jane Iredale Beyond Lip Stain in Longing

• Smashbox Be Seen

For more:

THE BEST RED LIP COLORS FOR OLIVE SKIN

Neutral Undertones

If you can wear both gold and silver jewelry easily, you’re likely neutral. Lucky you — most reds will work. When in doubt, choose a true red with a balanced base.

• L’Oreal Colour Riche Maison Marais

• Rare Beauty Kind Words Matte Devoted

• Dior Forever Red

For more:

40+ RED LIP COLORS FOR NEUTRAL UNDERTONES

How to Prep Lips for Red Lipstick (and Make It Last)

Red lipstick doesn’t hide anything — dry patches, feathering, and fading all show up immediately. Proper prep makes all the difference.

Gently exfoliate
Use a soft lip scrub or even just a damp washcloth to buff away dry skin. Avoid gritty scrubs. Remember that your lips are delicate and irritation will only make lipstick look worse.

Hydrate thoughtfully
Apply a nourishing lip balm and let it absorb for a few minutes. I personally use Lanolips. Have a lanolin allergy? Plain old Vaseline is also perfectly acceptable! Looking for other suggestions? No worries. I have a list of my 20 favorite lip balms that you can check out. Before applying lipstick, blot off excess balm. Too much slip can cause red lipstick to slide or bleed.

Prime the lips
Yes, there are specific lip primers on the market. No, they are a waste of money. A dab of concealer or a thin layer of foundation helps neutralize natural lip color and gives lipstick something to adhere to, improving both wear time and color payoff.

Line for structure and staying power
Lip liner is essential with red. Choose a shade close to your lipstick and trace just inside your natural lip line. For longevity, lightly fill in the entire lip with liner before applying lipstick. Here is a list of good red lip liners.

Apply in thin layers
Apply one layer of lipstick, blot, then apply a second thin layer. This classic technique helps color last longer without feeling heavy.

Optional but effective: set it
For maximum wear, place a tissue over your lips and lightly dust translucent powder on top. Old-school, yes — but incredibly effective. I used to watch my grandmother do this before going out to dinner. She had a loose powder that she used ONLY for setting her Estee Lauder lipstick and that was Coty Airspun.

Red lipstick shouldn’t feel fragile or high-maintenance. With the right prep, it becomes comfortable, wearable, and reliable. That’s exactly what a power lip should be.

Not Ready to Go Full Red?

If you love the idea of a red lip but want something softer, sheer formulas are your best bet.

Tinted balms and lip crayons add just a hint of red without full opacity — and anyone can wear them.

Try these:

• Violette_FR Bisou Balm in Amour Fou

• Burt’s Bees Gloss & Glow Glossy Balm in Eat, Drink & Be Cherry

Sometimes confidence starts quietly — and that still counts.

A red lip has never been about perfection. It’s about expression, presence, and a little defiance. Find the shade that feels like you, prep it well, and wear it because you want to — not because anyone says you should.

*Disclosure: I am a ShopMy affiliate and this means that I may earn a small commission if you make a purchase from any of the links I share. I have a policy not to accept sponsored posts or payments of any other kinds from brands, so being a ShopMy affiliate allows me to have complete independence by linking only to specific products I like and recommend from brands I trust.

Let’s cut right to to the chase, my friends: “medical grade skincare” is not a real category. It’s a marketing term—nothing more, nothing less.

In a perfect world, “medical grade” would mean a product went through rigorous testing, was backed by a mountain of peer-reviewed science, and contained exclusive ingredients so beneficial that only trained experts should be trusted to apply them in a controlled setting.

But in the real world? It means whatever a brand wants it to mean. There is no legal or FDA definition for “medical grade skincare.”
None. Zip. Nada. Zilch.

Let’s Be Clear: There Are Only Two Real Skincare Categories

When it comes to skincare in the U.S., there are only two actual, legally defined categories:

1. Prescription (Rx)
Products regulated by the FDA that require a doctor’s prescription. Think tretinoin, clindamycin, hydroquinone (at certain strengths). These are drugs because they treat, cure, or prevent medical conditions like acne, melasma, and rosacea.

2. Cosmetic (OTC/Beauty)
Everything else. Your cleansers, moisturizers, serums, toners, eye creams, and masks all fall into this category. These are legally considered cosmetics—they can hydrate, exfoliate, soothe, and support the skin, but they cannot legally claim to treat or cure any condition.

That’s it. There is no third, magical middle category where “medical grade” products live.
It’s a buzzword, created to sound clinical and science-backed, but it carries zero regulatory weight.

So Why Do So Many People Fall for It?

Because it sounds official. “Medical grade” gives off that white-coat, sterile-office energy that makes people feel like they’re getting something more effective, more serious, more elite.

And when influencers, spas, and med-spas start dropping terms like “medical grade” and “spa exclusive,” it creates a feeling of FOMO—like if you don’t buy this product, you’re missing out on some high-level skincare secret.

But here’s the truth: ingredients don’t become more effective just because the bottle is fancy and the serum costs $150.
A well-formulated product is a well-formulated product—whether it’s at the drugstore or sitting behind the spa counter.

“But My Esthetician Said the Product at Her Spa Has Higher Quality Actives…”

I hear this all the time. And I want to say this gently but truthfully:
Just because a brand says their ingredients are higher quality doesn’t mean it’s true.

Many spa and med-spa exclusive brands train estheticians to repeat their marketing language as fact. I used to sit through those trainings. Years ago, as a brand educator, I led them. I believed in the products I was training about at the time—but I now understand how carefully crafted that messaging was.

It sounded like science and education, but was just a marketing seminar.

Yes, the product your esthetician sells may contain a higher percentage of an active like vitamin C, retinol, or glycolic acid—but higher doesn’t automatically mean better. It could also mean:

• More irritation

• No meaningful difference in visible results

• Poor stabilization or delivery (so it doesn’t actually work as well)

On the flip side, a drugstore or mid-range product may contain a lower percentage of the same ingredient—but be beautifully formulated with proper pH, excellent delivery systems, and soothing ingredients to support the skin barrier. That’s the kind of formulation that works better, even if it looks “weaker” on paper.

The Bottom Line

“Medical grade” sounds official, but it’s just another marketing term.

It doesn’t mean:

• Higher quality

• FDA oversight

• Peer-reviewed research

• Better results

What really matters?

• The ingredient list

• How it’s formulated

• The stability and delivery of active ingredients

• Packaging that protects the product

• How your skin responds to it

You don’t need a $250 serum to have great skin.
You don’t need “medical grade.”
You need consistency, good formulation, and honest guidance—not marketing hype.

Myth #1: Mineral Oil and Petrolatum Clog Pores and Suffocate the Skin

Fact: They’re Typically Non-Comedogenic and Create a Protective, Breathable Barrier

One of the biggest misconceptions about petroleum-derived ingredients is that they trap bacteria, dirt, and oil in the skin. In reality, highly refined cosmetic-grade mineral oil and petrolatum are non-comedogenic, meaning they won’t clog pores or cause breakouts.

These ingredients form an occlusive barrier, which helps prevent water loss while still allowing the skin to function normally. That’s why dermatologists often recommend petrolatum-based products like Vaseline or Aquaphor for dry, irritated, or compromised skin. My personal favorite is the La Roche Posay Cicaplast Balm.

Myth #2: Petrolatum and Mineral Oil Are Toxic and Unsafe

Fact: Cosmetic-Grade Petroleum Ingredients Are Highly Purified and Safe

Some fear-based marketing claims that mineral oil and petrolatum are contaminated with harmful chemicals or linked to cancer. This myth likely stems from confusion between unrefined crude oil and highly purified, cosmetic-grade versions.

The truth? Cosmetic-grade petrolatum and mineral oil undergo rigorous refining and purification processes to remove any impurities. They are regulated by the FDA, the European Union, and other global health agencies, making them some of the safest, most stable ingredients in skincare.

There is zero scientific evidence linking cosmetic-grade petrolatum or mineral oil to cancer or other health risks.

Myth #3: These Ingredients Are Just Cheap Fillers That Don’t Benefit the Skin

Fact: Petrolatum and Mineral Oil Are Some of the Most Effective Skin Protectants

Some brands market their products as “petroleum-free” to imply that these ingredients are low-quality or outdated. In reality, petrolatum is one of the most effective and well-researched occlusive agents available.

It’s an FDA-approved skin protectant, making it a gold standard for treating dryness, eczema, and wounds. Dermatologists and pediatricians frequently recommend petrolatum-based products for sensitive skin, post-procedure healing, and even baby care. I shared that I had a craniotomy in December and I applied Vaseline over my 36 large stitches on my upper forehead each evening to protect them. Now, 5 weeks later, they are almost all healed.

While brands may push newer, more expensive alternatives, few ingredients match petrolatum’s ability to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and keep the skin barrier healthy.

Myth #4: Petroleum-Based Ingredients Are Harmful to the Environment

Fact: Petrolatum and Mineral Oil Are Byproducts of an Existing Industry, Making Them Efficient and Sustainable

Some argue that petroleum-derived ingredients are bad for the planet, but they’re actually byproducts of the petroleum refining process—meaning they utilize materials that would otherwise go to waste.

Unlike microplastics, mineral oil and petrolatum are biodegradable and don’t accumulate in the environment in the same way synthetic pollutants do. Additionally, because these ingredients are incredibly stable, products containing them often require fewer preservatives and have a longer shelf life, leading to less product waste over time.

If you’re concerned about sustainability, look for brands that source responsibly and practice ethical manufacturing, rather than simply demonizing petroleum-based ingredients.

Myth #5: Clean Beauty Brands Don’t Use Petroleum-Derived Ingredients

Fact: Many “Clean” Brands Use Synthetics That Mimic Petrolatum and Mineral Oil

Some brands avoid mineral oil and petrolatum for marketing reasons, but they replace them with synthetic alternatives that serve the same purpose—sometimes with less efficacy and more irritation potential.

Ingredients like hydrogenated polyisobutene, polybutene, and synthetic waxes are often used in place of petrolatum, yet they function similarly. The irony? Some of these alternatives aren’t as well-studied, aren’t as effective at preventing moisture loss, and sometimes cause sensitivity reactions.

So, if a product boasts about being “petroleum-free,” check the ingredient list—you might just find a lab-made alternative that’s doing the exact same job.

The Bottom Line: Petroleum-Derived Ingredients Are Safe, Effective, and Backed by Science

Mineral oil and petrolatum have been unfairly demonized by fear-based marketing, but the science is clear: They’re unlikely to clog the pores, highly effective for skin barrier repair, and among the safest ingredients in beauty products.

Instead of falling for misinformation, trust the research and use what works for your skin. Because at the end of the day, science—not marketing spin—should guide our beauty choices.

My Favorite Petroleum Based Occlusives and a Quick Note

I used to fear petroleum-based occlusives. The past decade or so, I’ve embraced them. My dermatologist recommended Vaseline. What are my most favorite occlusives? CLICK HERE FOR THE FULL LIST.

One of my favorites was used by my grandmother, a devoted Elizabeth Arden skincare user and Estee Lauder makeup and EL White Linen fragrance fan. She used Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream religiously. She used to put it in little white jars and labeled them “Soothing Balm” and if someone had windburn or cracked skin, she would send us home with a little jar. I used to hate the “old lady” scent, but I now find it comforting because it reminds me of her.

Quick Note: Vaseline and petrolatum-based products are occlusives, like I mentioned. This means that it is not a sufficient moisturizer. It is ideal to LOCK IN your moisturizer, though!

There is confusion surrounding different types of alcohol. I think that when we think of alcohol, many of us picture a bottle of drugstore rubbing alcohol. It is very drying. There are several different types of alcohol that are used in formulating skincare products. Some of these are drying, while others are emollient.

The difference lies in the molecular size of the alcohol molecule as well as the amount.

In chemistry terms, alcohol really just means that a molecule has an -OH (or hydroxyl group). This hydroxyl group is attached to a carbon. There can be any number of carbon atoms in this molecule. Short-chain alcohols have from 1–3 carbons, while long-chain alcohols are considered those with more than 8 carbons.

The Drying Alcohols

The drying alcohols most of us are familiar with are the common short-chain alcohols: isopropyl alcohol and ethyl alcohol. Alcohol names are often shortened by using the suffix –ol, so you may also see these listed on ingredient labels as isopropanol and ethanol. Isopropanol is rubbing alcohol. It is toxic if ingested. Ethanol is the type of alcohol found in alcoholic drinks.

In skincare, isopropyl and ethyl alcohol are commonly used in toners, hand sanitizers, and more. They are often used as preservatives or as solvents for other ingredients in the product. If you see Denatured Alcohol or Alcohol Denat. on a product label, know that these are just other terms for ethyl alcohol.

These short-chain alcohols have a drying effect on the skin because their small size allows them to penetrate more deeply. Using products with short-chain alcohols will likely cause skin to become dehydrated. If you suffer from rosacea, avoiding short-chain alcohols is very important, as they are common triggers for the condition.

The “Good” Alcohols

Not all alcohols are bad for the skin, though. I mentioned earlier in this post how certain alcohols serve as emollients. These are the long-chain alcohols, which are essentially fatty alcohols. They are derived from natural oils such as coconut and palm. Instead of being liquids, they are waxy solids. On ingredient labels, you will see them listed as cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol.

In skincare products, the purpose of fatty alcohols is to keep the water and oil emulsion together. Without them, the product would separate. They also improve the texture and appearance of the product. Fatty alcohols are skin emollients and are non-toxic. Unlike other alcohols, they actually condition and soften the skin.

While so many products say “alcohol-free,” it is important to remember that this is not necessarily a good thing when it comes to skincare. Many products are more effective with the addition of fatty alcohols, especially for dry skin. For example, many rich lotions and creams contain cetyl alcohol. Don’t let the word “alcohol” fool you—it can actually be beneficial!

And then I took my blinders off.

I came back down to earth and remembered that evidence and facts are stronger than fear and hysteria. Now, before I express concerns about an ingredient or product, I reference peer-reviewed studies—not dubious sources like Mercola, David “Avocado” Wolfe, Food Babe, or the old Natural News. Because let’s be real: just because your cousin’s friend’s neighbor’s stepmom read something on Facebook doesn’t make it true.

That brings me to today’s topic—a skincare myth that just won’t die.

The Claim: “It Only Takes 26 Seconds for Skincare Ingredients to Enter Your Bloodstream”

You’ve probably seen this floating around in colorful memes or heard it from an MLM sales rep. It sounds scary, right? The idea that whatever you put on your skin is coursing through your veins in under 30 seconds?

Well, good news—this is a complete myth.

To quote the ladies from that old Esurance commercial:

“That’s not how it works! That’s not how any of this works!”

How Skin Actually Works

Your skin is your body’s largest organ, and its primary job is protection. It’s designed to keep things out, not act like a sponge soaking up everything it touches. Here’s a quick breakdown of your skin’s structure:

• Epidermis: The outermost layer, acting as a barrier.

• Dermis: The middle layer, containing hair follicles, nerve endings, and sweat glands.

• Hypodermis: The deepest layer, made of fat that helps regulate body temperature.

For a skincare ingredient to enter your bloodstream, it has to get through all three layers—which is rare.

Penetration vs. Absorption: What’s the Difference?

A major reason why this myth persists is because people confuse penetration with absorption. These are not the same thing.

Penetration: This means an ingredient makes it past the top layers of your skin but does not enter the bloodstream. Most skincare ingredients stay within these upper layers.

Absorption: This means an ingredient has successfully entered the bloodstream. Very few skincare ingredients have this ability, and even when they do, your body has a natural detoxification system to process them.

So, when you apply a body lotion or serum, most of it stays on the surface or penetrates only the top layers of the skin. The molecules of many ingredients are simply too large to go any deeper.

What About “Toxic” Ingredients in Skincare?

Another fear-based claim is that personal care products are full of “toxic” chemicals that will build up in your system and cause disease. But here’s what’s often left out of those conversations:

• Your body naturally detoxes. The kidneys and liver filter out unwanted substances, meaning even if something were to enter your bloodstream, it wouldn’t stay there forever.

• Dosage matters. We’ve all heard the expression “It’s the dose that makes the poison” — A tiny trace amount of an ingredient isn’t the same as a harmful dose. Even water is toxic in excess.

• Not everything penetrates. Ingredients like silicones, mineral oil, and many synthetic compounds sit on top of the skin or get sloughed off as part of your natural skin renewal process.

The Problem With “Clean Beauty” Fear-Mongering

The rise of clean beauty has only fueled these myths further. Brands often claim their products are “free from harmful chemicals” while implying that traditional products are dangerous. But there is no legal definition for “clean beauty.”

This means any brand can slap the label on a product, even if it contains the same ingredients they’re demonizing. Fear-based marketing has led to unnecessary panic over ingredients like parabens (which are actually among the safest preservatives — read more on that in my blog post here) and silicones (which help protect the skin and lock in moisture).

Instead of falling for fear tactics, trust the science. I know it can be easy to fall for marketing buzzwords, but the truth matters.

The Bottom Line

Yes, we should be mindful of what we put on our skin, but we also need to recognize misinformation when we see it. Much of what you read about “toxic” skincare is written by people with zero background in formulation, chemistry, or dermatology.

Listen to EXPERTS, not influencers. Look at credible sources like dermatologists, researchers, and cosmetic chemists—not wellness influencers with an agenda.

Understand how your skin works. Your body is not absorbing your skincare products in 26 seconds. Most of what you apply stays on or near the surface, and anything that does get absorbed is processed by your body’s natural detox system.

Don’t fall for fear-mongering. The beauty industry thrives on making you scared of ingredients so you’ll buy their products instead.

At the end of the day, science matters more than sensationalism—and your skincare routine should be based on facts, not fear.

Let’s Talk About Pricey Skincare

There’s a common myth that if something costs more, it must work better. Brands love that myth—it helps them justify charging $100 or more for a moisturizer. But the truth is, much of that price goes toward fancy packaging, celebrity endorsements, and marketing—not necessarily better ingredients or superior results.

That sleek, heavyweight jar? It probably costs more to manufacture than the cream inside it. Add a recognizable name and a glossy campaign, and suddenly you’re paying top dollar for what might be the same active ingredients found in a $15 product at the drugstore.

I learned this early on in my career as a young 20-something working for Lancôme. It was no secret that if you couldn’t afford to buy the products until your gratis (free employee products) came in, there was a cheat sheet for the L’Oréal equivalent. L’Oréal owns Lancôme, and many of the formulations are nearly identical—just packaged and priced very differently.

What’s Really in That Bottle or Jar?

Here’s the secret: luxury skincare and drugstore skincare often use the exact same active ingredients. You’re paying for the brand name, the prestige, and sometimes the “experience” of using a luxury product — but not necessarily for better results.

Take hyaluronic acid, for example. Whether it’s in a $10 drugstore serum or a $200 luxury one, it’s still the same molecule that draws moisture to your skin. And yes, that $10 version can be just as effective. That’s why I keep coming back to my Good Molecules Hyaluronic Acid Serum for under 10 bucks—it works, plain and simple.

Why Drugstore Products Work

When it comes to skincare, it’s all about the formulation and concentration of active ingredients. If a product contains the right ingredients in effective amounts, it doesn’t matter if it’s from a drugstore or a luxury line—it can still deliver great results.

Drugstore brands have also come a long way. You’ll now find ceramides, peptides, retinol, and niacinamide in products that cost a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere. These formulations are often backed by large-scale research, dermatological testing, and years of development — especially from powerhouse companies like L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble (Olay), and Johnson & Johnson (Neutrogena, Aveeno).

The Esthetician Myth: “Professional Is Better”

Let’s talk about something I heard countless times during my years working as an esthetician: the belief that “professional” skincare is superior to drugstore options. It’s something estheticians are often taught to believe and repeat. But here’s what many people don’t realize: most estheticians receive product education directly from brand representatives — education that is designed to sell, not to compare or evaluate across the entire skincare landscape. I know, especially since I was on both sides. I received training as an esthetician and I also was a brand educator.

We weren’t being taught about drugstore products because they weren’t part of the selling equation. And yes, in many spa and salon settings, retail commission is part of an esthetician’s income. That’s not shady or unethical — it’s just the business model. But it’s important to understand that when you’re told you need a certain serum or cream, the recommendation is very likely financially motivated.

That doesn’t mean the esthetician doesn’t care about your skin. They absolutely do. It just means they’re working within a system that promotes and profits from one specific set of products. Look around the day spa to see what brands they sell. Is your esthetician only recommending those brands?

Drugstore ≠ Low Quality

It’s time to retire the outdated idea that drugstore equals low quality. In fact, many of these products are developed by the same scientists and chemists who formulate prestige products. The difference? Scale. Drugstore brands are created for mass distribution, which means they must meet strict safety, stability, and performance standards for a broad range of skin types.

And because of their reach and volume, these brands can offer effective, dermatologist-recommended products at accessible prices.

Save Your Money for What Really Matters

Look, I enjoy a little skincare luxury now and then, but when it comes to real, consistent results, there’s absolutely no scientific reason to splurge. Skincare should be about what works — not what looks pretty on your bathroom counter.

So next time you’re tempted by a shiny $120 serum, pause and check the ingredient list. There’s a good chance you’ll find something just as effective — if not better — at your local drugstore for a tenth of the price.

The Bottom Line

Your skincare routine does not have to be expensive to be effective. If someone tells you otherwise, it’s worth asking whether they’re trying to sell you something.

I use products from the drugstore, Target & Walmart. My morning cleanser is Cetaphil. My nighttime cleanser is CeraVe. The toner I use is BYOMA and the face mist is Cocokind. My serums are a mix of cocokind, the Korean brand VT Cosmetics, and Good Molecules, and my moisturizers are cocokind and Cetaphil. My sunscreen is Banana Boat. My hair care is L’Oreal and CeraVe for shampoo and TresSemme for styling products. Body care in the shower is Dove and Naturium. I don’t just preach drugstore (and Costco — don’t forget to look there!) skincare. It is what I use. It works.

Focus on ingredients, not brand names or packaging. Be consistent. Use what works for your skin, not what’s trending on social media. Drugstore skincare is smart skincare—and your skin (and your wallet) will thank you for it.

Click here for the 75 Best Drugstore Facial Skincare Products

Sounds great, right? But here’s the catch: “hypoallergenic” doesn’t actually mean what most people think it does.

In reality, the term is not regulated by the FDA — meaning brands can slap it on a label without proving that their product is any less irritating than a non-hypoallergenic one. Let’s separate fact from fiction when it comes to this misleading buzzword.

Myth #1: Hypoallergenic Products Are Guaranteed to Be Allergy-Free

Fact: No Product Can Be 100% Allergy-Proof

The term hypoallergenic implies that a product is less likely to cause allergic reactions—but it’s not a scientific or legally defined standard. The FDA does not regulate or require testing for hypoallergenic claims, meaning brands can use the word without any proof that their product is less irritating than others.

What causes an allergic reaction varies from person to person. Even products marketed as hypoallergenic can contain common allergens, such as:
Fragrances (including “natural” ones like essential oils)
Preservatives like methylisothiazolinone
Plant extracts that trigger sensitivities

If you have sensitive skin or known allergies, don’t rely on marketing claims — read the ingredients list instead.

Myth #2: Hypoallergenic Products Are Always Fragrance-Free

Fact: Many Hypoallergenic Products Still Contain Fragrance

One of the biggest skin irritants? Fragrance. Yet, many so-called hypoallergenic products still contain synthetic or natural fragrance compounds, which can be a major trigger for sensitive skin.

Even when a product is labeled as fragrance-free, it doesn’t necessarily mean it contains no scent at all. The raw ingredients have a natural odor you may detect and find bothersome. And products labeled unscented actually may contain artificial fragrance. Some brands use masking fragrances to neutralize odors, and these can still cause irritation.

If you have fragrance sensitivity, always check for ingredients like parfum, essential oils, or botanical extracts that could be hiding under that “hypoallergenic” claim.

Myth #3: Hypoallergenic Products Are Dermatologist-Tested and Approved

Fact: “Dermatologist-Tested” Means Almost Nothing

Another common misconception is that hypoallergenic products are dermatologist-approved. But here’s the reality:

• “Dermatologist-tested” is a vague term—it only means a dermatologist was involved in some capacity (which could be as little as one doctor testing the product on a handful of people).

• There’s no universal testing standard for what qualifies as hypoallergenic, so results vary wildly between brands.

• Some products labeled hypoallergenic still contain known irritants, making the claim meaningless for those with true sensitivities.

If you’re looking for skin-friendly products, focus on simple, well-researched ingredients rather than marketing buzzwords.

Myth #4: Hypoallergenic Means the Product Is Better for Sensitive Skin

Fact: Many “Hypoallergenic” Products Contain Irritating Ingredients

People with sensitive skin often reach for hypoallergenic products, assuming they’ll be gentler. But there’s no guarantee that these products are free of potential irritants.

Common irritants that can still be found in hypoallergenic skincare and cosmetics include:
Essential oils (like lavender or citrus oils, which can be irritating)
Alcohols (like denatured alcohol, which can be drying)
Preservatives (like parabens, which are often unfairly demonized but can still cause reactions in some people)

Sensitive skin? Instead of relying on labels, patch-test new products and opt for formulas with minimal, well-tolerated ingredients.

Myth #5: If a Reaction Occurs, the Product Isn’t Really Hypoallergenic

Fact: Anyone Can React to Any Product—Even “Gentle” Ones

The truth is, any ingredient—even water—can cause a reaction in the right person. Skin allergies and sensitivities are highly individual, and just because a product claims to be hypoallergenic doesn’t mean it’s safe for everyone.

For example:

• A moisturizer labeled hypoallergenic might still cause a reaction if you have a sensitivity to a specific plant extract or preservative.

• A hypoallergenic sunscreen might contain chemical UV filters that some people react to, even though they’re safe for most.

Instead of relying on marketing terms, learn which ingredients your skin loves and which ones it can’t tolerate. That’s the best way to avoid reactions—regardless of what the label says.

For nearly 30 years, I’ve lived and breathed color. From my early days behind the makeup counter to years as an educator, formulator, and writer, I’ve learned one truth about color: it’s far more personal than warm vs. cool or “Spring” vs. “Winter.”

Color isn’t seasonal. It’s soulful. It’s individual. It’s you.

That’s why I created The Authentic Palette — a modern, inclusive approach to color analysis that celebrates the full spectrum of beauty. My method was born from experience, not from a weekend certification. It’s for every face, every undertone, every hair color, and every identity — people of color, trans and nonbinary clients, and anyone who’s ever felt unseen in traditional beauty spaces.

Every face deserves to be reflected in its most authentic light.

What’s Wrong With Color Analysis Today

Let’s be honest — much of the color analysis world has become a franchise-driven, cookie-cutter business model. Systems like House of Colour operate as MLM-style franchises that cost tens of thousands of dollars to join. Training programs from major organizations often last only a few days — three to nine days, to be exact — and yet their graduates emerge calling themselves “certified color analysts.”

Three days is barely enough time to learn basic color theory, let alone the complexity of human undertones, overtones, and how light interacts with real skin. After decades of working with faces, I can tell you: true color mastery takes years of experience and an intuitive eye that simply can’t be taught in a crash course.

Many of these programs also overlook professionalism and accuracy. I’ve seen “analysts” performing consultations in brightly colored clothing or rooms filled with art and décor that reflect color back onto their clients’ faces — all of which completely distort results.

And here’s the truth that’s rarely talked about: the founders of most of these systems weren’t makeup artists, colorists, or professionals who’ve actually worked with human skin and pigment. They were businesspeople — often executive coaches — who turned color analysis into a product.

Color is not a franchise opportunity. It’s an art and a science — one that deserves respect, experience, and inclusion.

The Limitations of Traditional Systems

Even the more nuanced 12-season models fall short. Here’s why:

• They rely on outdated assumptions. Some systems focus on “childhood coloring” — but your golden hair as a five-year-old has little to do with your undertone today.

• Being a consultant doesn’t give you the natural instinct for color that cannot be taught.

• They exclude too many people. Most seasonal systems were built around white skin tones. That’s not only outdated — it’s unacceptable. Beauty isn’t limited to a narrow shade range.

Other methods also ignore people with vibrant hair colors, like pink or blue, and often fail to accommodate trans and nonbinary clients whose beauty journeys might not fit traditional boxes.

My philosophy? Color analysis should reflect who you are right now — not who a chart or franchise says you should be.

Why I Don’t Use Seasons

I don’t use seasons because they put people into boxes.
Color is fluid — it evolves as you do.

In my method, your current hair color plays a key role, alongside your undertone and eye color. For instance, I was once typed a Soft Summer. Pretty, sure — but many of those muted tones washed me out. When I darkened my hair, my skin came alive in Bright Winter jewel tones. I also look great in Bright Springs. Why? Because I have a neutral undertone and a high contrast. I also look GREAT in lavender and denim blue.

Color is dynamic, and it should be treated that way.

Whether you’re silver-haired, pastel-haired, or anywhere in between, your color story deserves flexibility and authenticity.

Beyond Warm and Cool

Many systems insist everyone is either warm or cool — but that’s simply not true.

There are 3 basic undertone categories: warm, cool, and neutral. Far too often olive is misunderstood, automatically thrown into a warm undertone. I delve greatly into the discussion of olive overtones here and the need for an individual approach with each client.

And let’s talk about redheads. The assumption that every redhead is warm? Completely false. I’ve met countless redheaded clients with cool undertones. Placing them in warm palettes makes them look tired, not radiant. The undertone always comes first — not the hair color.

The Eye Matters

Eye color isn’t an afterthought — it’s a crucial part of the harmony.
The eyes hold unique tones that influence how certain hues interact with your overall coloring. Ignoring them is a missed opportunity to uncover the most flattering palette.

Experience Matters

While I may be newer to the title of Certified Color Analyst, I’m no newcomer to the art of color.

I’ve been analyzing undertones, matching foundations, and selecting complementary shades since the mid-1990s. I’ve worked with faces of every background as a makeup artist and educator for brands like Lancôme, Clarins, Estée Lauder, Laura Mercier, and Cargo Cosmetics.

I’ve written extensively on color in the print media, dating back to my first how-to guide for USA Today on how to choose a red lipstick in 2012. My decades of experience have taught me what no 3-day certification could: how to see the interplay between undertone, overtone, pigment, and light — in real life, on real people.

The Authentic Palette Difference

Color analysis is both science and art.
Science gives us the structure — the Munsell system, the rules of hue, value, and chroma. Art brings intuition — the practiced, experienced eye that sees how a color truly lives on the skin.

At The Authentic Palette, I blend both.
I don’t rely on rigid systems. I rely on connection, education, and artistry — to help you find colors that feel authentically you.

Because color should never be about fitting in a box.
It should be about lighting you up — exactly as you are.

What Is Rosacea?

Rosacea is a skin condition that causes redness and visible blood vessels on the face. While it’s common, many people don’t realize they have it, especially since the symptoms can be mistaken for other skin issues. So, let’s take a look at the common signs to help you spot if you might be dealing with Rosacea.

Rosacea Symptoms

• Visible blood vessels: You might notice small, red lines popping up on your skin, especially around your nose and cheeks.

• Blushing or redness: Your skin may flush easily, almost like you’re blushing for no reason.

• Eye irritation: Swollen eyelids and watery eyes are pretty common for those with Rosacea.

• Itchy, sore skin: It might feel irritated, tender, or itchy, like your skin’s in constant discomfort.

• Bumpy or rough texture: Your skin may take on a bumpy, uneven texture, which can feel like a mild acne breakout.

• Pimples and pustules: These aren’t your typical acne spots, but they can look like pimples filled with pus.

• Constant redness: The skin often stays red and inflamed, especially on the central part of the face.

If you’re noticing two or more of these symptoms, it’s worth scheduling a visit with your dermatologist. While there’s no exact cause of Rosacea, there are plenty of known triggers to be aware of.

Rosacea Triggers

Rosacea flare-ups can be set off by a variety of things. Knowing what triggers your skin can make a huge difference in managing symptoms. Here are some common culprits:

• Stress: Emotional stress is a big one. It’s like your skin can sense when you’re stressed out!

• Sun exposure: The sun is a major trigger for Rosacea. If you’re out in the sun too long, it could cause redness and irritation.

• Exercise: Sweating from physical activity can heat up your body and trigger flare-ups.

• Hot weather: Hot temperatures can irritate your skin, so be mindful in the summer.

• Spicy foods: If you love spicy food, it could cause a flare-up.

• Hot drinks: Coffee or tea, while oh so good, can contribute to Rosacea when too hot.

• Saunas and hot baths: Both feel amazing, but they can trigger Rosacea flare-ups.

• Alcohol: Drinking, especially red wine, is a known trigger for many with Rosacea.

• Fragrances and dyes: Artificial fragrances or dyes in your skincare products can be irritating.

• Harsh ingredients in skincare: Alcohol, menthol, peppermint, clove, and eucalyptus are a no-go for Rosacea-prone skin.

Skin Care Tips for Rosacea

When it comes to treating Rosacea, there’s no “one-size-fits-all” solution. Everyone’s skin is different, so finding the right skincare routine for you is key. But the good news is that inflammation is the main concern, no matter your skin type. Whether you have oily or dry skin, soothing inflammation is the top priority.

Here are a few tips to help you get started:

1. Gentle Cleanser: Start with a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser. Harsh soaps can irritate your skin, so avoid anything with strong chemicals or fragrances. Vanicream is a great choice.

2. Soothing Toner: Opt for toners with natural ingredients like cucumber or aloe vera. These can help calm irritated skin.

3. Exfoliation (Gentle): Exfoliating once a week is important, but don’t go too hard — no scrubs for you. A gentle chemical exfoliant containing Polyhydroxy Acid is best for Rosacea. The larger molecular size of this acid makes it ideal for those with sensitive skin. While reading labels, the product may say Gluconolactone or Lactobionic Acid.

4. Sunscreen: Sunscreen is a must. Rosacea and sun exposure don’t mix well. Make sure to apply a broad spectrum sunscreen to protect your skin every day.

5. Moisturize: Even if your skin is oily, you still need to moisturize. Look for a light moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated without causing breakouts.

6. Visit Your Dermatologist: If you don’t see improvement with over-the-counter products, it’s time to see a dermatologist. They may prescribe a topical cream to help control the condition.

Karley’s Recommended Rosacea-Friendly Skincare Products

You don’t have to break the bank to manage Rosacea. There are plenty of budget-friendly products that can help soothe your skin and reduce inflammation. Look for skincare products that are free of alcohol, artificial fragrances, and other irritants. I am sharing the best skincare products for rosacea over in my ShopMy in one convenient spot. Please note, as always, that I may earn a small commission on some items. Again, I try to put everything I recommend in one spot as an easy resource for reference broken down by category. Most of the products on my list of under $25. Some are not, as I know that some of you do prefer high end brands, and I want you to have options as well.

Your dermatologist can also recommend the best options for your rosacea-prone skin.

Once upon a time, we were told to flip our wrists over and study our veins like we were prepping for a blood draw. If they looked green, you were warm! If they looked blue, you were cool!

Except… have you ever actually looked at your veins and thought, “Um, they just look like veins”? Exactly. You’re not alone.

The truth is, vein color is one of those outdated “beauty rules” that’s been passed down like an old wives’ tale. It doesn’t take into account things like lighting, depth of skin tone, or how our skin can change in warmth or coolness depending on everything from our health to the time of year.

So, let’s toss that outdated method right out the window (lovingly, of course). There’s a better, more authentic way to figure out your undertone — one that doesn’t involve contorting your wrist in natural light while second-guessing your eyeballs.

First things first: what even is an undertone?

Your undertone is the subtle hue that lives beneath your skin’s surface. It’s not about how fair, medium, or deep your skin is — it’s the temperature of your skin’s base color that influences everything from what lipstick flatters you to what clothing makes you feel alive and radiant. Undertones NEVER change. Your overtone (superficial surface color) can change due to things like sun exposure or applying sunless tanner — even illness — but your undertone remains the same throughout your life.

There are three main undertones:

Warm: Golden, peachy, or yellow beneath the skin.
Cool: Pink, rosy, red, or bluish tones underneath.
Neutral: A balanced mix of both — not overly warm or cool.

The Jewelry Test

Forget the veins. Look at how different metals sit on your skin.

Gold jewelry tends to enhance warm undertones. It looks rich and glowy, like your skin and the metal are in on the same secret.

Silver jewelry pops beautifully on cool undertones, creating that crisp, balanced contrast.

Rose gold can flatter olive undertones.

And if gold and silver both look equally as good on you? Congratulations — you’re likely neutral!

Do you tend to stick to the same metal? I KNOW silver is my best metal because I have cool undertones, but I do have a necklace I like that has a gold chain. It doesn’t look BAD, but it just doesn’t look great either. How about you?

The White vs. Ivory Test

You can also try this with neutrals — it’s simple but telling. Hold a piece of pure white paper or fabric next to your face, then do the same with a creamy ivory.

If the pure white makes your skin look vibrant and clear, you probably have cool undertones. If ivory gives you a soft, candlelit glow, you’re probably warm. And if both shades look equally flattering, you might be neutral — lucky you!

What Is Color Analysis and How Is My Method Different?

If you’ve ever tried on a lipstick and thought, “Why does this shade make me look like I have a stomach bug?” while another color instantly makes you look alive and radiant, you’ve already touched upon the idea of color analysis.

Let’s break it down.

🎨 The Basics

Color analysis is the art and science of discovering the colors — in clothing, makeup, and accessories — that harmonize with your natural coloring. Your skin tone, eye color, and current hair color all play a role.

When you’re wearing your best shades, your skin looks brighter, your eyes sparkle, and your whole look feels effortless.

🌸 The Classic Seasonal System

Traditionally, color analysis used the four-season system: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. Each season is a palette of colors designed to complement certain undertones:

• Spring: Warm, light, and clear (peach, coral, mint green)

• Summer: Cool, soft, and muted (lavender, dusty rose, powder blue)

• Autumn: Warm, earthy, and rich (mustard, olive, rust, deep teal)

• Winter: Cool, bold, and high-contrast (black, white, jewel tones)

It’s a great starting point — but it has many limitations.

⚠️ What’s Wrong With Color Analysis Today

Many color analysis models are MLM or franchise-based, meaning anyone with money can buy a license — regardless of skill or experience. For example, House of Colour requires a $25,000 franchise purchase plus 4% royalties.

Training in the color analysis industry is often extremely brief:

• International Image Institute: 3 days (Master Class: 9 days)

• Color Me Beautiful (UK): 5 days, 4 hours/day

• PCA (Sci/Art): 4 days

You cannot possibly learn color theory, draping, undertones, overtones, and work on real people in just a few days. I know this from 30+ years in the beauty industry: it takes decades of hands-on experience to truly understand the nuances of human coloring.

Social media also shows the issue clearly: anyone can earn a certificate and start offering consultations — sometimes delivering flawed results. For example:

• Analysts wearing colorful outfits or working in cluttered, colorful rooms can skew results.

• Founders of popular systems were often executive coaches, not professional makeup artists with decades of experience blending pigments and analyzing undertones.

Real-world experience matters — and that’s what sets The Authentic Palette apart.

🧩 The Limitations of Traditional Systems

Not every system works for every person. Here’s why:

• Childhood Coloring: Some methods only look at childhood features. For instance, I had golden blonde hair as a child but naturally cool skin — a mismatch many systems would overlook.

• Hair Color-Only Systems: Some methods prioritize hair over skin, which misses the most critical piece of your coloring.

• Exclusion: Many traditional systems leave out people of color, trans and nonbinary individuals, and anyone with nontraditional hair colors like pink or blue.

Even the 12-season philosophy, which I studied, has its gaps. That’s why I created The Authentic Palette — an inclusive, modern, and practical approach to color analysis.

💡 Why My Method Is Different
I don’t use seasons, because they box people in. Instead, my system:

• Considers your current hair color — because your coloring can change over time. For example, my natural golden blonde would be misleading if analyzed as a child, but my current darker brown hair makes my blue-gray eyes pop.

• Recognizes true undertones beyond just warm or cool — I include neutral. I also have years of expertise working with clients with olive overtones.

• Accounts for eye color — an often-overlooked factor that can dramatically affect how colors interact with your features.

• Celebrates individuality and inclusion — everyone deserves to see themselves reflected in their perfect palette, regardless of skin tone, hair color, or gender identity.

• Uses Color Mapping alongside draping — a professional technique that helps me analyze your unique coloring and features to determine a truly personalized palette.

• Uses real-world expertise — my decades as a pro makeup artist, brand educator, and magazine beauty writer give me the trained eye to discern subtleties that a short certification alone can’t teach. I’ve also shared my color expertise in publications such as USA Today, guiding readers on how to choose the perfect lip color, blush, and other makeup shades based on their undertones.

Redheads, gray-haired individuals, and those with nontraditional hair colors are never forced into a “season” — your palette is uniquely yours.

👁 The Eye for Color

Color analysis is part science, part artistry. While systems like the Munsell Color System lay the scientific foundation (hue, value, chroma), intuition and experience matter too. Some people have an innate ability to see what works — I’ve had that since I was a middle schooler, matching lipstick shades and outfits effortlessly.

This trained eye, combined with decades of analyzing thousands of faces, allows me to create palettes that truly reflect each client’s unique beauty.

✨ THE AUTHENTIC PALETTE SERVICES

I combine three key elements:

• Decades of hands-on experience as a makeup artist — giving me the trained eye to see subtleties that a short certification alone can’t teach.

• Formal color analysis certification — grounding my work in proven professional techniques.

• A unique, modern, inclusive methodology — including Color Mapping alongside draping, which allows me to analyze your unique coloring and features to create a truly personalized palette.

💄 In-Person Color Consultations

• Color draping sessions to find your ideal wardrobe and makeup colors

• Jewelry tests to see what metals harmonize with your undertones

• Customized shopping guides tailored to your palette

🛍 Online Makeup Shopping Guides

• Downloadable guides for convenience and clarity

• Coming soon — November 2025 launch — unless my upcoming surgery affects that!

🌟 Some Final Thoughts

Color analysis isn’t about rigid rules. It’s about discovering the tones that make you shine. With The Authentic Palette, my goal is to give you the tools, knowledge, and confidence to express your truest self through color — your own, authentic, radiant color.